Brew notes & ramblings…

Heres a couple handy brew notes for reference…

* extract conversion:

DME has 45 points per pound per gallon (ppg)

[(1 pound) * (45ppg)] / (5 gallons) =  9 specific gravity points on hydrometer (1.009), per pound of malt in a typical 5g batch

LME has 38 gravity points per pound per gallon (ppg)

[(1 pound) * (38ppg)] / (5 gallons) = 7.6 specific gravity points on hydrometer (1.0076), per pound of malt in a typical 5g batch

* Yeast Rehydration (recommended for dry yeast before pitching)

Rehydrate yeast per instructions on pack- sprinkle yeast into 10 times yeast weight (11g of yeast in 110 ml of water = approx 4 oz)  of boiled water, cooled to 70-80 degrees F, cover with foil & let stand for 15 mins then lightly stir, then let rest again for 5 mins before pitching.

* Yeast Starter (always recommended to ensure healthy yeast)

Prepare a wort of a gravity of 1.045 using 4 oz DME per 32 oz water.   Bring wort to boil to sterilize & cool to 70-80 degrees F. Pour your pitch-able yeast slurry, or direct sprinkle dry yeast into wort & let rest for 24 hrs in a sterilized container with airlock, The use of a stir plate will dramatically increase yeast growth.

* Priming fermented beer with corn sugar

For standard 2.5 volumes of carbonation use .8 oz (.7 oz for lower 2.3V English Bitters  & .9 oz for 2.6V Pils, Belgians ) of priming sugar / gallon of finished beer, fully dissolved in 2cups of water, stir into bottling bucket, then fill & crown bottles
If individually dosing each bottle, measure your sugar solution in ml (if 2 cups = 473 ml) & divide by the number of bottles (if 5g in secondary, accounting for trub & tubing loss take 4.75g x 128 for total oz / the size of bottle giving us 27 for 22’s or 50 for 12’s) then using a sterile syringe, draw up 17.5 ml of sugar solution for each 22 or 9.5 ml per bottle for 12 oz bottles then crown.
If bottle conditioning a bright, clear beer that was fermented with a high flocculating yeast & has had an extended period in the secondary, you may want to rehydrate & blend in some CBC-1 conditioning yeast to ensure full carbonation, this will leave sediment to the bottom of your bottle.

* Conversion factors:
1 liter of water = 1 kilogram in weight
1 ml of water = 1 gram in weight
1 cc = 1 ml
29.5 ml in 1 oz

* All grain water to grist ratios
Mash to water ratios range from 1.25-2 quarts to lb of grain in mash tun.  Thinner mashes can be more efficient & reduce  the chances of the mash sticking when lautering (sparging) but can impact strike temperature as well as the grain will “take” less heat from the strike water, as there is more hot water.  This can create a beer with less fermentability, giving the end result more body & less alcohol.  Lower initial mash temps can increase fermentability, and allow for multiple “rests” or steps of temperature by decoction or simply adding small amounts of boiling water to gradually raise the temp of the mash, while thinning it as well.  Rims & herms recirculation systems should have rather a thin mash as there are hoses, pumps, etc that take volume from the mash tun, if too little strike water is used it may run the grain bed dry & pack against the false bottom.  All things to concider for each all grain recipe & adjust.  Be sure to take & compare notes as well and use BeerSmith as a way to help calculate and organize notes & recipes.

Comments are closed.